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The Khaki Revolution: From Dust to Military Style
—Lieutenant General NS Brar
The history of khaki is deeply intertwined with the military, its evolution from a practical uniform choice to a global fashion trend. Originating from the Persian word "khak," meaning dust, khaki has a fascinating journey that began during the Anglo-Sikh Wars and eventually spread across the world. In this blog post, we will delve into the intriguing origins of khaki and how it became synonymous with military attire and beyond.
The Birth of Khaki
The story begins during the Anglo-Sikh Wars in the mid-19th century. Henry Lawrence, the Resident at the Court of Lahore, recognized the need for a specialized military force to settle and administer the wild lands of Trans Indus, particularly the Peshawar region. Thus, the Corps of Guides was born, an "Irregular" Corps composed of horse cavalry and foot infantry. Their unique uniform was inspired by the local attire of white hand-spun cotton pyjamas, smock, and turban, but it soon proved too conspicuous for the arid and barren terrain of the frontier.
Innovating a Suitable Color
To overcome the visibility issue, Harry Lumsden and William Hodson, appointed as Commandant and Second-in-Command, respectively, improvised a more suitable color for their troops. They experimented with various dyeing agents, including the extract of the local mazari palm, mulberry juice, Multani Mitti (Fullers Earth), tea, and coffee. These endeavors resulted in a drab yellowish shade, resembling what would eventually evolve into khaki.
Widespread Adoption
The success of the Corps of Guides' drab-colored uniform led to its adoption by other irregular units deployed on the frontier. During the 1857-58 period, all units raised for service, including British troops at the Siege of Delhi, embraced khaki as their field service uniform. The British Army's 52nd Foot, later known as the Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire Infantry, became the first British unit to don khaki.
Khaki's Rollercoaster Journey
Despite its early popularity, khaki as a universal uniform was temporarily discarded and later reintroduced, only to be discarded again. However, the Indian Army's deployment in the Abyssinia Campaign of 1867-68 marked a significant turning point. Drawing lessons from the First Afghan War, troops in the Second Afghan War (1878-80) wore locally dyed khaki, which eventually became the official service uniform of the British Indian Army.
Standardization and Global Adoption
A wide variety of khaki shades came into service until a mill-dyed khaki, patented in England in the late 1880s, established itself as the official color. The British Army, Indian Army, and other colonial armies fully adopted khaki in 1902. The United States Army, Navy, and Marine Corps followed suit, and by World War I, khaki became the standard uniform for all belligerents.
Beyond the Military
Khaki's availability and adaptability made it the standard uniform for various services, including the police, para-military forces, postal services, and government bodies in India and other British colonies. Colonial civil servants also adopted khaki attire, giving them a touch of official authority. Over time, "khakis" evolved into a term referring to trousers based on the original military model, rather than the color itself.
Conclusion
From its humble origins in the dusty battlefields of the Anglo-Sikh Wars, khaki rose to prominence as a practical military uniform and gradually infiltrated the world of fashion. Its ability to blend with various terrains and the practicality it offered made khaki the go-to choice for armed forces worldwide. Today, khaki remains an enduring symbol of military heritage and style, reminding us of its remarkable journey from the color of dust to a global fashion icon.
—Lieutenant General NS Brar
(This blog is derived from "Khaki" in Drummers Call by Lieutenant General NS Brar, PVSM, AVSM, VSM, Indian Army.)